Ford E-Series 4wd Conversion 1976-91

The Ford van is the perfect vehicle to convert to 4wd. Factory Ford 4x4 pick up axle have a left hand offset on the front axle, which is ideal for a van. The E-series van engine and drive train are offset to  the right, so the left hand offset pick up axle can take advantage of the additional clearance.

Front Axles

The Dana 44 front axle is the most common axle used in a E-150 or E-250  4x4 conversion. But there are only a few years where Ford used an axle that would work in a van. The Ford trucks from the early to mid 1970's used drum brakes and had closed steering knuckles. Both those attributes are  inappropriate for a 4x4 van conversion. After 1980, all the trucks with a Dana 44 were built with IFS (independent front suspension) front suspension. So that leaves 1978-79 Ford pickups as the best choice.

The F-150 and Bronco  used a radius arm/ coil spring front suspension. If thats what you want, buy everything related to the suspension when you buy the axle. (We will be focusing on the leaf spring style suspension in this editorial). To find a Dana 44  that is set up for leaf springs, you need to find a 1978-79 Ford F-250LD. The light duty Dana 44 in an F-250 can be converted over to the Ford 1978-79 F-150 or Bronco 5-lug wheel ends. Or you can leave it 8 lug.

The Dana 60 is  also available in the 1978-79 F-250HD and F-350 4x4 trucks. But from 1980 and up, the F-350 Dana 60 will work just as well.

Note: A word about buying a Ford Dana 60 axle. The Ford Dana 60 is in high demand, and there are allot  of bad axles being sold by dealers. When shopping for the Ford Dana 60 axles, be picky and be aware of some of these problems.....

Inspect the spring mounting pad welded to the long side axle tube. It is normally a formed bracket  that is welded in place. Is the spring pad flatted out like it's been crushed? Is the flat surface of the spring pad badly rounded on the front and back edges? If so, the axle tube will most likely be bent. If it's bent where the  tube meets the center section, it won't be easy to fit. Keep shopping.

Look for oil leaks where the axle tubes are pressed into the center section. Is it wet with gear oil? If so, the tubes are loose in the housing, avoid it.

The Dana 60 axle to find will have trunnion style steering knuckles. It's not possible to mount a steering arm to the top of the ball joint style steering knuckle.

 Transmission & Transfer case

Transmissions

The C6 trans has a short main shaft in 4WD applications and a long shaft in the 2WD applications. The  same is true for AOD units. You could install a 4wd trans. from the same truck from which you salvaged the adapter and transfer case. Or install a 4wd main shaft into your 2wd trans. Then you can use the OEM Ford 4x4 C-6 and E4OD  trans. extension housing.

The C6 trans is very cost effective to rebuild. Should you buy a C6 trans that has not been run for a year or two, rebuild it anyway. Even if the seller says it was running when he parked it. It really  sucks to have to remove a trans twice. The C6 trans has some little seals that have a tendency to dry out when the trans hasn't been used for some time. A trans with that problem will shift into "Reverse" and or "Drive" but won't  engage until the trans has warmed up for 15 to 30 minutes. Whatever trans you decide to use, have a tranny shop freshen it up before you install it.

Transfer case Choices

What transfer case to use is your choice. However, if you are converting a 92up Ford van, you must use a Borg Warner 1356. A New.Process 205, 208 or Borg Warner 1345 does not have enough offset  to keep the front drive shaft clear of the transmission.

Spicer Transfer cases.

Some builders prefer to use a remote mount transfercase, so they don't  have to mess will changing their trans. A remote mount 205 would be the best choice. Some of the old 70's F-250 trucks had remote mount Spicer transfer cases. They have a cast iron case and are gear driven, like the 205 . But parts  availability stinks. And the parts you do find "new" will be very exspencive. Some of the out put yokes alone can be as much as $100 each. Some parts aren't available at all.

 New Process 205  

For those who want a strong transfer case that is gear driven, the N.P. 205 is the way to go. The front  and rear output yokes come in different u-joint series and styles and can be easily changed. However, they can be rather stiff when it comes to shifting.

New Process 208   

The 208 has an aluminum case and is chain driven. They are reliable and shift easily. It would be a good idea to split the case and check it out. Some 208's have a  fork that is aluminum with plastic fork pads which ride inside metal shift collar. The second version has a all metal gear with a nylon shift collar. The nylon version is usually trashed and needs to be replaced, use the old style  if you have to rebuild your N.P. 208.

Borg Warner 1345

The Borg Warner 1345 is common in 1980's Ford trucks and Bronco's. It has an Aluminum case with  chain drive, and shift's easily. They hold up well, but when they have allot of miles on them, they usually need a complete and expensive rebuild. Some of the replacement parts are only available via after market sources and can be  pricey. Replacing bearings, front case half, forks, shift collars, pump parts, yokes, cam plate are all par for the coarse when rebuilding a B.W 1345.

Borg Warner 1356

 The 1356 comes in a few different configurations. One version is Mechanical shift and one version is Electric shift. Most people avoid the Electric shift because it's hard to figure out the electrical to make it work.  The  mechanical comes in a few different configurations. One version has a "fixed" rear output yoke. Meaning the rear output has a narrow bearing retainer with a yoke is bolted in place. When using a fixed yoke style t/c, the rear drive  shaft assembly will need to have a slip and spline built into the shaft.

The "slip yoke" version has a bearing retainer that is several inches long. The transfer case rear output yoke can be pulled free of the case and is several  inches long. The rear drive shaft for this type of case does not require a slip and spline. The bushing that supports the slip yoke can become worn and cause some  irritating vibrations. 

Either one of these styles  will work for you. Avoid the units that have "flange" type yokes. Even though the spline count is the same between flange and and yoke style shafts, the manufacturing process used to make the spline on the shaft is not always the  same. Some splines peak with a sharp point and some are flat on top. Just enough of a difference to prevent the swap. They can be converted over by replacing shafts, but that adds up $$$.

Ok, now the problems with the 1356. Most  used cases will pop out of gear when you step on the gas. There is a common problem with high mile, used cases. The shift linkage operates a lever and spindle that is located in the side of the front case half. The spindle operates  the shift cam plate inside the case. The spindle tends to wear out the machined hole into an oblong egg shape. So when the you attempt to shift the case into a different position, the lever has the right throw, but the spindle  cocks sideways in the case half and doesn't move the cam plate into the right position and leaves you hanging between gears. Then it pops out of gear under a load. You can replace the front case half with a new one or Pathfinder  4wd Van Accessories can machine your case half and install a bushing to restore it to the right specs.  

You may also find a few other problems. The 1356 is very intolerant of  poor service.  Internal  lubrication relies on a oil pump driven by the mainshaft. The ATF fluid  is picked up via a filter on the end of a oil line and drawn up into the pump. When the case suffers from lack of fluid changes, metal particles normally  sluffed off moving parts will gradually plug up the screen on the filter and starve the pump of oil. The case will quickly self destroy itself  under those circumstances. Other parts prone to wear are the shift forks and the  parts they operate.   

Putting It All Together

   Floor jacks and jack stands are a must. You will want to lift it several inches off the floor to get started. Keep in mind that  the location for the spring shackles and mounts will be approx 43 inches front the front frame horns. So don't put your jack stands in a place where they will be in the way.

Remove the front brake calipers and hang them out of  the way somewhere in the fender well. Disconnect the clip that holds the coil spring into the spring tower and also remove the upper shock mount. Disconnect the  tie rod ends from the steering knuckles and pitman arm. Leave  the pitman arm in place. You will then start by cutting the brackets that provide the pivot and mounting points for the left and right side I-beams and radius arms. Grind the ruff edges and slag off the frame.

Tack weld the hangers in place and lower the springs from the hangers. Completely weld the mounts. After they cool, reinstall the springs and tighten down all the hardware.

The next step is to install the appropriate size blocks and u-bolts to lift the rear of the van to match the front and also add an Add-a-leaf to the rear spring pack if needed. It may also be necessary to lower the frame mounting  bracket that supports the rear brake hose. Or replace the hose with a longer one.

Mounting your transfer case will depend on the case you have chosen. It may help to save the cross member  from your drive train donor vehicle and modify it to help you. The same is true for the shift linkage. You can compare the OEM Quadravan drawing in the Quadravan parts dept. for ideas.

Steering

To finish your steering, determine which steering arm is appropriate for the style steering knuckles you have. For  Dana 44 applications, it will be necessary to drill and tap the top of the steering knuckle to except the steering arm mounting bolts. The Dana 60 steering arm (trunnion style only) will bolt on without modification to the  steering knuckle. After the arm is in place, take a center to center measurement between the pitman arm and the new steering arm.  Pathfinder can provide a custom drag link to match your measurement. If your axle came with  a wheel to wheel style tie rod, use it.

Shocks

To determine the length of the shocks, take a center to center working measurement. The full weight of the Van  must be on the suspension. Once you have established the measurement, you will want to figure out how much up and down travel will be required to suit your suspension. Use those measurement as your initial extended and  collapsed shock length. The front shock will be simple to mount. However, you may need to relocate the rear lower shock mounts. Most builders will cut off the old mounts with an Air Arc and relocate them in a higher  position. Others will weld in an extension to put the shock mounting point higher and further ahead of the axle tube.

Drive shafts

A Professional  Drive line shop can identify what series pinion and transfer case yoke you have and build appropriate drive lines for you.. The front drive shaft clearance will need to be scrutinized. Depending on the lift  you have chosen for your van, you may need to trim your engine cross member to give the front drive shaft more clearance.

Fuel Tanks

Fuel tanks can interfere with the install of the transfercase. Some vans have a saddle tank mounted to the left side frame rail, right where the transfer case needs to be. Your options? Pull it completely or possibly shift the  tank further back on the frame and rehang it. Or, have the end cut off and a plate welded in to cap it off. Your options have allot to do with your vans wheel base, the size of the tank and the transfer case you have chosen.  Some builder pull it completely, and install a tank with a greater fuel capacity behind the rear axle. You will have to figure out what is best for you.